The Blind Tasting
~
Buying and selling wine is what I do. I buy wine for our
shop/wine bar, and I sell wine to other shops and restaurants in my mountain
town community. I am the boss of my own shop, and I have a few bosses at the wine
distributor company I work for. One boss
was a GM who loved being at the center of attention. Super nice guy, don’t get
me wrong, but he loved having all eyes on him and pacing the room. 20 or so of
us (wine reps from around Colorado) would sit attentively watching him,
responding to him and participating in his presentations, (every other Friday
for the two years that he worked for the company). He was into it. He
transformed our meetings into elevated environs for those 4-5 hours. He was fit
and a fairly little guy…tight hipster jeans made him appear even smaller. But
he had lots of energy, and certainly filled the room. A big monitor loomed in
front of us with sales numbers and quotas for the month, it was no surprise now
who was performing in their respective territories, and who was lagging behind. This technique certainly had me (the quiet
perfectionist) selling more quota wines and Howell Mountain Cabs than
ever. A girl has to save face in-front
of her peers.
Our meetings take place at “the loft“(a well-appointed
meeting space with two large conference tables, full restaurant caliber kitchen
and $15-20k’s worth in an Italian prosciutto slicer and espresso machine…this company
takes food & wine very seriously). These meetings are always intriguing and informative,
but they were especially animated and intense under this particular GM. At some
random point in the meeting, never fail, this GM would dash into the backroom
and come back armed with a bottle in a paper bag (otherwise known as Blind
Tasting Time). I saw it as another way to challenge myself, to prove myself as
a worthy wine-rep in the shark infested waters of competitive wine-sales. My
heart would start to race and my mind would immediately begin the sleuthing
process. What kind of shape was the
bottle? Burgundy, Bordeaux? My inner discussion commenced into overdrive. What
wines are currently on quota? What wines
are important to our company? What category were we not performing with? Which
specific winery needed our attention and a quick turn-around in sales? What containers of wine had just landed with
a boatload of wine sitting in the warehouse that imminently needed our
attention and depletions? Generally
there was a motive behind each blind tasting choice.
He would walk around the room clockwise and pour a small
amount into each of our glasses. My mind would begin to churn with the deductive
tasting protocol. I learned this method from the Court of Master Sommeliers 19
years ago as a fledgling wine rep (a baby duckling really). I took the 1st
level in Aspen after my first year as a wine rep and it has come in handy throughout my career. Deductive tasting is how to taste wine…how to
gather information from the wine in the glass in front of you, how to go through
a series of logical and progressive steps and come to a reasoned conclusion
based upon such evidence. Sight. Nose.
Palate. Conclusion.
Is the wine red or white or rose? Is it clear or murky (i.e.
unfiltered)? Does it appear light or
dark? Can I see through the wine or is it opaque? All of these things give me a
preliminary sense for the wine. I ponder
what I see. I swirl. I stick my nose in the glass. (By the way, cardinal rule in the wine world
is that you never wear perfume or cologne as it interferes with your olfactory
receptors. I haven’t worn perfume in 20
years!) What do I smell? Where does it take me? To a fruit? To a
vegetable? To an oak tree? To a memory
of wine or a specific herb that I’ve tasted or smelled before? To a moment in
time in a particular place? The flood
gates start to open…
I take a sip. Does the taste match what I was expecting from
the sight and the smell? What is the
texture of the wine? Is it gritty with tannin or silky with clean fruit? What
are the flavors I am getting? Which fruits? Red fruits, blue fruits? Raisins? Peaches? Gooseberry? Cat pee? Jalapeno
pepper? Dill? The sweet vanilla of toasted Hungarian oak? Where is this leading
me? Does it have acidity? How much? Or is it soft and round? Is it New World
(bright and cheery, full flavored from the sun) or Old World (more reserved,
subtle in its nuances…more pensive)? Is
it heavy or light on its toes? Is it a pinot noir or a mencia? Where is it
from? How old is it? How much does it cost? So many questions. The more you drink, the more you think you
know! (Sometimes you are right, a lot of times you are close, sometimes you are
totally wrong.)
I have nailed the wine a few times. I was the only one to claim Lewis Russian
River Chardonnay. It was dark yellow,
full of nutty oak, pineapple, butter-scotch, weighty. Some people guessed Rousanne, others were
flummoxed. But I reasoned it was super distinctive, very full of personality
and that there weren’t many wines like this one in our portfolio…and I made an
educated guess. Another time it was an
earthy Patagonian Malbec that I had had recently. And another time I said “cool
climate pinot noir” and everyone looked at me cross-eyed. It turned out to be a
Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir from Austria). Once I guessed El Nido…it was a cloudy
full bodied, layered and complex red, full of expensive oak and I knew I had
never had this wine before…but had an idea of what it might be. And I was right! Everyone, including the GM, was aghast. J
There is something so satisfying in that moment. You have to
think about what is in your glass. I believe it helps to have a history with wine,
a myriad of experiences that aid in your summation. I have learned to ponder
the wine, the setting and the circumstance…and go with my instincts. I have
learned to listen to what people around the table say, to weigh and consider their opinion like Sir Francis Bacon. Ultimately, I have learned to come up with
and trust my own conclusion. After 20
years in the wine business, I have learned to have faith in my call. Although
that GM no longer works for our company, I will forever be haunted by his blind
tasting sessions in our meetings. It is intense. You are on the spot. Everyone
is looking at you. What will it be? 2014 AOC Chablis or 2013 Friulian Sauvignon
Blanc?
